Mughals and the art of learning

One of the things that surprises me is the interest Sibi builds up when he is into something he likes. The latest is the 'Mughal emperors'.
I am not sure how or when it started but I can guess it might be sometime after our April 2008 vacation to Delhi and thereabouts. I did remember telling him the story behind Taj and the imprisonment of Shah Jahan in it. But I don't remember him showing a lot of interest anyway.
But it all started may be 3-4 months back when he got his GK book for his III standard. That had the photos of Humayun's tomb and Taj. When trying him to identify the correct pictures, Jeysri told him a few details on Humayun and rehashed the Shah Jahan story.
Sibi built up an enthusiasm for the stories and he started asking who is Humayun's father, wife and when they were around and what they did etc. We tried to answer as much of his questions and finally I taught him how to search for 'Babur' and read the articles in Wikipedia.
He did that and started reading on Akbar, Humayun etc till Aurangazeb and tried to make sense of the timeline. He couldn't really place the 17th century in context as he kept asking questions on when the British came and when his grand father was born, who was ruling etc.
I got him to the list of Mughal emperors page and showed him the table with the timeline and showed him that along with the story on the last emperor of Mughals. He got that and started reading through the information.
Yesterday, Jeysri showed her MA-History book on the Mughals and Sibi interestingly wanted to read through the book than asking his mother to tell him the story. I asked a few questions (on when Babur reigned, when Akbar was born etc) and pat came the answers. He also let me know that he knows the 6 emperors and 4 of their successors and he is going to figure the entire line till Bahadur Shah II. He is able to identify the emperors by their portraits as well.
It never stops fascinating me to see Sibi learning things. I know how he 'studies' but when he learns it is very difficult to dislodge information from him. He is a studious learner. It takes time and his interest, but like I told Jeysri yesterday, he is like me in terms of learning all the 'irrelevant' things and keeping it handy for a day that may never come. That aside, what I am seeing is that once he sets his mind to something, he has that tendency to get to the bottom of it.
That said, we went to Bangalore last week for 3 days. The original plan was to go to Wonderla but the monsoon came early and it was raining 2 out of the 3 days and so we went to the HAL heritage museum (which was good) and the Baneerghatta National park (which is overrated).
Also watched the complete 'John Adams' last week and must watch for all the American revolutionary history students. In a way, I am like Sibi in my interest in the American revolution and the Civil war related history (watched 'Gettysburg' as well, one word, fantastic) but that's for another day.

ஆப்பசைத்த குரங்கு

பட்டினத்தாருடனான அறிமுகம் 'பட்டினத்தார்' என்ற திரைப்படம் மூலம்ஏற்பட்டது. எங்கள் ஊர் (சிவகாசி) கொட்டகையில் பெஞ்சில் இருந்து பார்த்தபடம். பெரிய பாதிப்பு எதுவும் நினைவில்லை.

பின்னொரு நாள் எதோ ஒரு சுஜாதா கட்டுரையில் மேற்கோளை கண்டு பட்டினத்தார், சிவ வாக்கிய சித்தர் எல்லாம் தேடி படித்ததுண்டு. பல பாடல்கள் நினைவில்லை எனினும் சில தருணங்களில் நினைவில் வருவதுண்டு.

அவற்றில் ஒன்று இந்த ஆப்பசைத்த குரங்கு பாடல். அந்த படிமம் மனதில் பதிந்துவிட்டது மட்டும் காரணம் அல்ல. 'அர்த்தமுள்ள இந்து மதம்' இரண்டாம் பாகத்தில்கண்ணதாசன் மேற்கோள் காட்டுகிறார்.

"நாப்பிளக்கப் பொய்பேசி நவநிதியம் தேடி
நலமொன்றும் இல்லாத நாரியரைக் கூடிப்
பூப்பிளக்க வருகின்ற புற்றீசல் போலப்
பொலபொலனக் கலகலெனப் புதல்வர்களைப் பெறுவீர்
காப்பதற்கும் வழியறியீர் கைவிடவும் மாட்டீர்
கவர்பிளந்த மரத்துளையில் கால் நுழைத்துக் கொண்டு
ஆப்பதனை அசைத்திட்ட குரங்கதனைப் போல
அகப்பட்டீர் கடந்துழல அகப்பட்டீர் நீரே!"

கே.டானியலின் 'பஞ்சமர்' என்ற நாவலை படிக்க ஆரம்பித்தேன். முன்னுரையின்மூன்றாவது வரியில் ஆசிரியர் சொல்லுகிறார் "தனிமனித சுதந்திரத்தைஅழித்தொழித்து, எல்லாம் எல்லோருக்குமான சுதந்திரத்தை பெறுதல்' என்றமுனைப்புடன் எழுதி வருவதாக. புத்தகத்தை மூடி வைத்து விட்டு 'கட்டாயம்படிக்கவேண்டுமா?' என்று யோசித்து கொண்டிருக்கிறேன்.

Count of Monte Cristo

I was watching the last hollywood version of 'The count of Monte Cristo'. I am not a purist and I do think taking some liberties when you storyboard a massive novel is acceptable. But this is absolute murder. Dumas will turn over in his grave if he ever heard of this.
And to call it a travesty is an understatement. It was nothing more than a sentimental tearjerker and I almost thought in the midway Dantes is gonna runaway with Countess Mondego and cause a scandal. I didn't watch it till the end for fear that I might lose all my love for the novel and puke as well.
I like - rather love - the book 'The Count of Monte Cristo' because though it runs for over a 1000 pages, it works in many levels as a novel. It is a tragic love story, a story of redemption and a revenge most gruesome in every way and a fantastic action thriller. I have about 3-4 copies of this book and have read the Oxford world classics version 7-8 times.
The revenge in the book is very subtle and the Count works under various guises for a lot of time to achieve what he wanted and then starts wondering whether it is what he wanted. It puts the conflict in the justification of the revenge and the consequences of the same. For me each of the guises, Abbe Faria, Lord Wilmore, The Count are manifestations of the same person at odds with himself and trying to express his case.
One of my early memories is reading this book in Tamil when it was published in the Paico classics series. After that, I read multiple versions of it in different abridged versions and complete ones and settled on the Oxford version about 10 years back. This is just one bad movie trying to destroy my love for the book and I wont stand for it.
The one movie version which I love is in French and I believe is dubbed in English. But anyway, I got the DVD in French as it feels more authentic. It is a 6 hour version with Gerard Depardieu as Edmond Dantes and the beautiful Ornella Muti as Mercedes. It is an amazingly done version and it captivates you till the end. If you have to watch it on DVD, watch this one.

We buy our meat from a nearby butcher shop which is manned by a person we call 'bhai'. He sells his chicken and meat at very good markups but given my wife's hate for the processed meat, we buy it fresh at least 2-3 times in a week from him. But this is not about him. This is about me.

When I started eating meat, I cannot remember. It must be pretty early. But most of our family occasions, marriages, festivals are all invariably linked to eating meat.

I remember the cook ups for my great grand father's 'திதி' in Sivakasi under a big tree in huge utensils. The goats are around and some how after some time, they disappear and start showing up in the utensils. And you get to eat while play around the trees. When we meet in my grand ma's house, all I remember of my auntie's is them cleaning chicken or cutting fish and eating the same after the male members of the family had their lunch.

When I go to my maternal grand ma's house in Sivakasi, I remember the trips to the fish market with my grandpa and buying goat blood for breakfast (its not as morbid as it sounds, its actually tasty). And of course, having it for breakfast along with Idlis and 'கொத்து கறி'.

And the pigeon kolambu my periamma used to make. It was never enough as the meat from the pigeons is so less.

I also remember all marriages that happened in the family and the day after when we get to have the 'கறி சாப்பாடு'. It is a custom that happened for my marriage as well. Since you cannot eat meat on the marriage day, eat it the day after. It was fun.

I also remember the difference in lunch boxes in school when most of the kids carry curd rice and puliyotharai's, my mom packed chicken and eggs. Its strange but true. Also the fact that I was taught to eat everything and not waste anything. My father still makes sure the left over bones are
really void of any meat. Intestines, brain, blood, liver, pancreas and the head of the goat. I can confidently say, the only things I've not eaten in a goat are the horns, eyes and hooves.

And the beef curry I tasted in Trivandrum and beef eating that started in US of A. I ate pork, beef and of course any meat that I could lay my hands on and even now, it is difficult to eat anything which does not smell like meat. Sibi is not so bad and he likes Chicken and eats Fish often and
Vanathy has started liking chicken only now.

Yesterday, after dropping Vanathy in school, I went with my wife to the butcher shop. I was standing outside as my wife was buying goat brain. I was looking at the butcher's skill in removing the skin from the head of the goat and slowly crack open the skull to take the brain out. Then I noticed,
the goat's eyes and teeth. That's when I realized how impersonal it seems to me. Here was a goat well and alive the day before and was having its brain extracted I am standing in line to get at it and I don't even feel any amount of compassion for it. And half kilo of Chicken that came along with it.

I was wondering when I became insensitive to the plight of all the hundreds of chickens and goats and fishes that were killed to feed me. But I also tried to shoo it away as it was making me uncomfortable. I am not even sure what was happening. Then lunch time came and the brain was indeed delicious. It was uncomfortable, but really juicy and good.

Putting things in perspective, I may never, ever become a vegan in my life. I think the process of buying it in the butcher shop is what is putting all these thoughts to me. May be if it was processed chicken, its more like a vegetable and I won't even think about it. .

On the other hand, I was watching this Japanese movie called 'In the realm of senses' and I was thinking of the goat as I watched the climax. Not much difference and the climax was more morbid than the brain extraction (yeah yeah, I know the usual film-festival defense, but it is still morbid)..

Vanathy tells a story on Dora

Vanathy tells a story about Dora, Bhujji and a big fish..
During bedtime, its usually Vanathy who tells the story for us, here is another of her stories about Dora intermingled with the distractions in the bed..

Day 2 - Travelogue continued..

Day 2 - Jan 1, 2009
Kudanthai - Thirukarukkavur - Tanjore

The early morning of the new year saw us in the road from Kudanthai to Tanjore and we planned only one stop in between. This was to the Thirukarukkavur temple (where my mom had some 'nearthi kadan'). The road diverges in Papanasam and though the road is bad, the greenery of the place is absolutely stunning. After a bit of drive we came to a point on the banks of River Vettar with no bridge in sight. We parked the car and were told to cross the river using the small bridge and then walk to the temple. So we did the same except we took a share auto in the other bank.

The temple is in the midst of a village and not yet touched by the commercialization of other temples in the area. Mullaivananathar sits peacefully here doling out blessing to anyone and everyone who comes there. The amman is beautiful and after my mom's thing is done, we slowly walked back to the car.

Next stop was Tanjore Big temple. It was very hot when we reached Tanjore and there was a big crowd in the temple. We parked the car and walked inside. In the second gopuram, I stopped to try to read an inscription on the wall. It was actually easier than I thought. My wife was standing near me and she was looking up into the same and suddenly we both realized that this is a 'meikeerthi' of Raja Raja. It was so clear to start with the 'Swasthi sri thirumagal' in the first line. The entire trip was worth that one moment for me. That and the fact that I was able to make out 'Udayar sri Raja Raja Thevar' in almost all the places in the temple.

Once inside, we went to see Peruvudayar and then took a leisurely walk around the temple. Being new year, the crowd was high. During the walk, 2-3 Iyyappa swami's approached my father (who was lagging a bit) and asked 'samy, ithu enna ooru?' (Sir, whats the name of this city?). Sigh! apparently they dozed off in their van and were unable to figure where this 'Big temple' they are wandering about. Whom to blame for such a state of things? I also tried to search for the vanthiyathevan inscription in the back side of the temple with no luck. J enquired an ASI guide in the temple, that guy looked blank. But overall, it was a very satisfying visit (though I've been to this temple before). Most of the thanks should go to the PS group of which I am a member.

Thiruvarur - Kodikarai

We took some refreshments in Tanjore and drove to our next halt, Thiruvarur. I always wanted to vist the place where 'Mohanambal' danced. We checked into Hotel Selvies(hotelselvies.in) and had our lunch there itself. It was 3PM and we started for Kodikarai in earnest to vist the Kuzhagar temple.

The drive in itself was not eventful and the slow change in scenery, from green fields slowly changing into 'uppalams' and the coastal backwaters changing into the swamp lands of Kodikarai. It was just beautiful. We decided to hit the beach first when light is there. The beach in itself is not the standard beaches but more a fishing village with some amount to sands and shells strewn across. The sun was setting now and the sparkle on the water with the fishing boats was looking fantastic. The kids were a bit disappointed to see such a beach. Took a picture of the light house and drove to the Kuzhagar temple.

The temple is undergoing renovation and it was plain to see that there is not much left of the original temple. The madapalli and Kuzhagesar Himself have not changed but the other parts of the temple have changed a lot. I talked to the gurukkal, who opened the temple after seeing us, and he was happy that they have sponsors for most of the renovation work. I was a bit sad that the temple may not look the way it was but then afterall, change is the only permanant thing.

This a shot of the madapalli in Kuzhagar temple. If you want to contribute to the renovation, please get in touch with the following person for details and ways to contribute.
V. Sivaraja Kurukkal
South mada Vazhagam
Kuzhagar temple
Kodiakkadu 614807
Vedaranyam (Tlk)
Nagai dist. Ph (04369) 27247 (off) 9486606209(mobile)

J was happy to have visited Kodikarai and our only regret was that we couldn't spend more time there.

We retuned back to Thiruvarur for the well-deseved rest.

Happy new year...

I was planning for a trip to visit some of the places mentioned in Ponniyin Selvan and after talking about it with my wife since our marriage and after 2 kids, we were finally able to take off this Dec 31, 2008 for the trip.
Having in mind that I have 2 kids to take care of, I have to restrict the trip to most of the well-treaded roads and had to be content with visiting some of the places I have already visited. But then, it turned out to be one hell of a blast for all of us in the end. Here is a travelogue of the same.

Day 1 Dec 31, 2008

Chennai - Viranam Eri - Gangai konda cholapuram

We started by 5.30AM on Dec 31 with Gangai Konda Cholapuram as our first stop. Hitting NH45 early helped in avoiding most of the Chennai traffic and after passing through the toll plaza we stopped for a quick breakfast in Achirapakkam. The hotel (Ganesh Bhavan) basically runs a swindling operation in the guise of a hotel. Though the food is good, prices are exorbitant and better to avoid this. Moving on, the road was fantastic to drive on and we made good time till Tindivanam and after which the road work is still going on and roads are just OK. We took the detour to Panruti before Vilupuram and hit the gas till Neyveli and were forced to slow down till after Vadalur due to some real bad roads. We drove along the viranam Eri thinking of the 'Adi perukku' Vandiyathevan witnesses. Good monsoon this year means there was water all along in all the rivers and canals.

We went past the Viranam Eri and reached our first destination, Gangai konda Cholapuram. I've never been to this temple here and everyone in our party (my parents, kids and wifey) were excited to look at a near replica of the Big temple. Sibi was all excited about the cow-god (Nandhi) and was more impressed with the Yali sculptures. In every temple we visited, he started looking for Yali and was wondering whether they are powerful than lions.

We were just in time before the noon puja and after watching it to heart's content and letting the kids play in the surrounding lawns for sometime, we started back to our next stop, Kumbakonam.

Kumbakonam - Darasuram - Thirunageswaram - Oppiliappan temple
We had our lunch and checked into LeGarden Inn in Kumbakonam. It was actually a serviced apartment with two bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, a kitchen, hall and a dining area, which was quite a deal. After a little rest in the afternoon, we started again for Darasuram around 4PM. Airavatheeswarar temple was so fantastic we spent more than an hour roaming around still coming out feeling we haven't seen everything. We engaged a ASI guide and there was a trove of information he came up with for the panels, the 'Raja gambeeram' mandapam, the pillars, the overhead panels, the chariot-style etc. Sibi was busy counting the Yali's he could find and generally running around.

We left Darasuram and after a cup of tea from the local boiler shop, we proceeded to Nageswaram and Oppiliappan temple. We went back to the room after a tiring day for us and the kids. But then J had other ideas and dragged me along for a shopping trip in the shopping district of Kudanthai. After visiting 'Seemati silks' (a landmark I heard so much about in my school days courtesy of Trichy AM station), we bought the new year cake and came back to the apartment.

We cut the new year cake by 10.30PM and hit the sacks immediately to make sure to prepare for the visits the next day.